Un café, s’il vous plaît

There is something intensely social about coffee:

I remember an Arabic friend for whom I strived to make the perfect espresso, who told me the story of visits to his homeland, of drinking multiple cups of strong, black coffee poured ceremoniously for each man during gatherings.

I remember, as a youth, waiting with great groups of people outside of crowded, luxurious Austrian-style kaffehauses in Atlanta’s Buckhead and Dunwoody areas to sit with friends and sip hot cups of espresso-based beverages and nibble on tall cakes and rich pastries.

I remember spending late nights in chilled trucker-style diners, crowding three-to-each-bench with friends, drinking countless ounces of dark, watery, acidic liquid to warm myself with the cheap, bottomless cups.

And driving nearly an hour at least twice a week to low-lit white rooms while handsome twins cooed melodies to my sister, our friends and me as we sipped rich, bitter broth from large, matching, ceramic mugs.

I was never one to drink coffee alone, never brewed a pot or ran a cup from my rarely-used espresso machine unless someone shared with me. The Unmentionable Shops opened, quickly becoming a worldwide fad and taking so much clout from our pretty, artsy coffeehouses, yet I never went to drink alone; absently nibbling dark-chocolate-covered espresso beans while laughing, watching wondrously as the stage of five or six improv actors entertained a cafe of strangers who all felt like friends was far more addictive.

I’ve loved every eclectic coffeehouse I’ve ever entered for its potential, even in the cold of Cincinnati’s winter, even that bohemian, blue room and its droning spoken-word poets where I felt like I had stepped back in time, where my well-dressed friends and I were clearly overdressed and out-of-place.

Perhaps it was when I was alone that I stopped going to coffeehouses, when I stopped drinking coffee: after I dumped my boyfriend (or he dumped me; I’m still not sure), and when, returning to Atlanta, I found no one close with whom I wished to share such intimate things. I always claimed it was the aching belly I would have after the second or third cup, that it was the yellow-and-black diners’ white-and-black mugs of tannic acid that turned me from every single drop. But maybe I was wrong…

Since, after six years of swearing it off, it was in the company of three close friends that I returned.

“Are you sure you don’t want to have some?” he asked. “Here, try mine.”

“I don’t like it; it makes my stomach hurt,” I protested. And still I gave in: his cup looked, smelled so delicious, so richly tanned, so perfectly balanced in the pretty white cup of this opulent hotel restaurant. I lifted his cup delicately to my lips, sipped… and fell in love.

It was clear he loved his café whenever I saw him drink it, and clear now why he enjoyed every cup he sipped, whether from a diner or from a fine place such as this: he drank it like a prince and had the sensibility to distinguish whether it deserved to be drank or not.

He saw my face change subtly, saw the unspoken surprise, the acceptance. “Do you want one?”

“Yes. Please.”

In taking that small porcelain cup of heavenly-rich, creamy, sweet liquid, I suddenly felt a part of this group, taken into their realm of enjoyment, lifted to a higher plane of sensibility that included the ambiance and the conversation between these men. It was not that I did something that I did not wish, that I forced myself to fake belonging; but rather that I found my place again in something forgotten, discarded years before when it became unsatisfactory in every aspect.

My wealth was given back to me in this place, with these men, at this table, in this gesture – in my acceptance of this cup.

It surely seems silly, exaggerated, to think that a mere cup of joe could change so much. Even until this moment, I only peripherally felt, thought, knew it did. All I knew was that I was awake, that it was beautiful: that moment, that day, that place – that cup of coffee – and that I would drink it on occasion afterwards.

I do crave coffee now, from time-to-time; and I do go for it alone. But I think it is not the caffeine I desire, since I never suffer from its lack; nor even the taste, since I rarely get it quite right. I am even more sensitive now than ever to coffee’s effects, my heart pulsing and racing frighteningly if I drink an ever-changing and indistinct “too much.”

It is the experience of coffee that I crave: the social aspect, the craft of coffee-making, of serving coffee, the interaction of one human offering a simple pleasure for another, of one person enjoying a simple pleasure with another, wherein, I’ve learned, nuances can be so distinct. It is the act and gift of pure pleasure in commonplace things that makes even the caffeine rush so poignant and close, that makes coffee so good; that makes me yearn for every coffeehouse, for every friend with whom I’ve shared a cup; that makes me love coffee.

With A Smile on My Lips

A frustrating restaurant shift leads me to Alon’s in Dunwoody, craving an Asian Salmon Sandwich and Edmame Salad, the sweetness of dripping teriyaki sauce over tender chilled salmon filet, the salty soy vinaigrette over bitter greens and plump young soybeans.

For an hour and a half, I lose myself in these flavors, burn my frustration with a cold, pale golden glass of organic Gewürtztraminer.

I have a slightly guilty conscience about the glass of Gewürtz; I’m heading back to the restaurant for the night shift and I’ve never once indulged in alcohol between a double. But it is delicious….

Grapefruit on my tongue and the bitterness of pith meld with a slightly-sweet finish that lingers and smooths into rich velvet. Another sip and the sparkling effervescence pricks my tongue, cool and zippy; I forget the guilt, forget the job.

The sandwich demands my attention, ripples of focaccia shimmering with olive oil, perfect dimples of tenderness that I know from my last experience of this sandwich (while driving at 65 mph down I-285 in my father’s manual Ford truck) pair irresistibly with cucumber, sprouts, salmon and sesame teriyaki.

I take a bite and the sweet sauce immediately drips over my fingers; the flavors overwhelm me. Through spongy-soft rosemary-flecked bread and chilled, medium-rare poached salmon, my teeth break the tender-crisp cucumber shaved clean of its skin and meet again after piercing the second layer of luscious Italian bread clearly baked fresh today.

I am ravenous: I want to devour the entire sandwich all at once, to savor every bite infinitely.

I hate being ravenous, hate being consumed by lust for anything; my eyes find the plastic container of Edmame salad. I lick the cool sauce thoroughly from my fingertips, peel the plastic lid from the salad.

A forkful of spicy arugula and gorgeous, bitter magenta-and-white-striped radicchio, wilted in the dripping brown liqueur of soy and rice wine vinegar awakens my senses, and somehow a slick, tender edmame pops between my teeth, fresh and sweet. I love the texture of edmame: it’s ethereal in its perfect smoothness, I’d expect it to crack brittlely between my molars instead of popping apart and sinking, sponge-like, between my jaws’ gradual pressure. I’m quickly addicted to the refreshing bite of this dish; I crave the richly nutritious lettuces and beans and forget all about the Gewürtz… though not quite the luscious oily-sweet sandwich that yet beckons.

On principle, and for the sake of curiosity, I pause from the salad to sip the Gewürtz, deliberately avoiding the temptation of that focaccia-lined pile. And blink in surprise; the German white cleanses even this healthy freshness from my palate, demands attention in its own right with fresh citrus and mellowing lees as the liquid slowly warms to cellar temperature. My interest is piqued by its growing complexity; I wonder if it will show more mineral notes as it warms, as my favorite Niagara Gewürtztraminer does.

I sit with the white for a while, sipping and rolling the now-creamy liquid on my tongue, sucking it into my cheeks, amazed at the slick drying effect it has on my teeth and gums. Suddenly, I’m slightly embarrassed at the awareness of others in the vicinity, businessmen scattered around at nearby tables who, I’m afraid, may be picking up on my sensual experience. One more sip and I feel my cheeks flush with the effects of alcohol and of my mind.

I’m conflicted now, my eyes flicking between sandwich and salad, knowing that either will be a delight….

I pick up the remaining part of this half of the sandwich, sink my teeth into it dutifully, reluctantly – I need the protein, I know – and reel from the mixture of flavors flooding my palate again. I’m in it, now; I simply take bite after bite, not pausing to savor each individual component, not taking time to relish in the play of textures upon one another – and still, the perfection of mid-rare salmon brushing against teeth and tongue sends rushes of satisfaction through me, the delicate sesame flavors rise, the crunch of cucumber tickles the corners of my mind wondrously at the brilliance of this incredible meal.

There is love in this sandwich, surely; and not just my own. To create something so lovely, so delightful to so many aspects of human enjoyment is a feat, even if it is sold so casually as in this corner-artisan-bakery and gourmet food shoppe.

I find a small brown box and tuck inside the remaining, untouched half of my Asian Salmon Sandwich, perfectly preserved for later enjoyment; press the round plastic back onto the last forkfuls of Edmame Salad. And sip the last ounce or so of this tart Oregan-made Gewürtz that is the first clean wine I’ve had outside of my favorite winery’s selection.

I’m impressed, satisfied, warm and elated; it’s back to work I go.

With a smile, teriyaki and Gewürtztraminer on my lips.

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